We switch back to France, just for a day, arriving into the capital of Corse / Corsica, Ajaccio. There’s no big walk planned, just a modest trot around the town, but we start in the market hall, feasting our eyes on the fabulous overnight catch. 

Assorted whole fish laid on crushed ice at a market counter with blue price cards, including red-orange reef fish and silver-grey fish on the right.
Seafood market stall displaying large tuna and tuna steaks on crushed ice with blue price signs; a worker in apron is visible in the background.

We head off through Place Foche, where a statue of Napoleon in Roman Empire dress looks over four lions. It’s quite appropriate since the house in which he was born is just one street away from here. 

Bronze angel statue with outstretched wings on a stone pedestal, flanked by flagpoles and a peach-colored building in the background under a blue sky
Facade of Hôtel de Ville with a clock tower rising above a pinkish-beige town hall, palm trees framing the plaza on a sunny day
Statue of a robed figure on a tall pedestal in a city square, flanked by two lion statues with pastel buildings behind and a hedge in front of the monument.

We visit Cathédrale Santa Maria Assunta, and then on to the old fort. Dating back to 1555 it was only decommissioned in 2002 and it’s now rather unloved. 

Facade of a sunlit ochre building with many blue-green window shutters, banners hanging from the walls, and arched doorways below a sidewalk.
Interior of ornate church with an elevated pipe organ and wooden pews, checkered floor, and carved arches.
Interior of a grand cathedral with ornate vaulted ceilings, arches, and rows of wooden pews leading to an ornate altar at the far end.
Sunlit village courtyard with cream buildings, blue shutters, and outdoor tables under white umbrellas.","Cobbled alleyway between stone walls and pastel houses, string bunting and cafe seating.","Town square with bunting, umbrellas, and tables, bordered by red-tiled roofs and greenery.","Rooftops, trees, and a sunny plaza with chairs and plants in a coastal village."

After this we just take a leisurely stroll along the promenade, choosing the vast cemetery as our turnaround point, where the mausolea are built right on the seafront. 

Cemetery street view with gray mausoleums along a stone wall, pink flowering bushes, a rusted street lamp, and a blue sky above.
Coastal beach town with buildings along the shore, people in the water, and distant blue mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

The town is cute and the French are so chic, it’s just a shame they can’t pick up their dog fæces, which is all over the the pavements. 

We finish off our walk along the pedestrian centre, trying to remember where the car hire was located but fail to find it, still that was 17 years ago. 

Statue in a tiled European plaza with beige historic buildings and a bright blue sky in the background, a few people walking nearby.
Interior of a grand marble church with ornate vaulted ceiling, circular dome, and gold chandelier visible above a black-and-white patterned floor.

We pop into one of the museums but decide not to bother with a proper visit, the rotunda is interesting enough. The church opposite is also interesting. We also notice La Belle Des Océanes parked up next to us. We see this ship sailing around the Canaries all winter. 

Red Corsica Linea passenger ferry docked in a harbor, with a coastal town and green hills in the background.

A break from tradition, we decide to take lunch at Sakura, supposedly just a light option!

Grilled salmon fillet with broccoli on a red speckled plate and a small sauce cup. A fork and knife are nearby.
Blue ceramic bowl filled with chicken salad, shredded carrot, greens, and nuts on a light table outdoors.
Plate of assorted sushi on a dark plate: shrimp nigiri, glazed salmon nigiri, and assorted tuna/rolls with avocado and orange roe; a few green onion garnishes add color.
Two shirtless men enjoy a rooftop pool with glass railing, overlooking a marina and hillside cityscape.
Two shirtless men posing in a rooftop pool, with a glass railing and a coastal cityscape in the background.

After jacuzi my day deviates from the others again as I’m doing another class. A mad indulgence perhaps, but this time it’s personal. My private lesson with chef Stefano is such fun, we cook scallop carpaccio Étang tartar, poulet cocotte gran mère and crêpes suzette. Kitchen assistant Amanda is so helpful, I cook her some extra crêpes, of course I don’t know if she enjoyed them.  

Professional kitchen prep station with raw meat on a tray, mushrooms, onions, lime, butter, oils, and bowls of spices and sauces laid out on a stainless counter
Two chefs pose at a bright kitchen counter with bowls of ingredients, one giving a thumbs-up and the harbor view behind them.
Two chefs in white uniforms and tall hats work in a stainless steel kitchen, one pouring wine into a pot while smiling at the camera.
Baking tray filled with folded, pale golden pastries arranged in rows, lightly dusted with flour ices.
Pot on the stove containing orange broth with pieces of chicken and dumplings.
Three chefs pose together in a bright shipboard kitchen, wearing tall hats and aprons, with pots and bowls of food in front.
A cook’s hand points toward a large stainless steel pan with bubbling sauce on a kitchen stove, surrounded by other pots and utensils.
Three plated dishes on a stainless kitchen counter: a stacked cylinder of diced vegetables in a light sauce, with two other plates of food nearby (one with orange sauce and dumplings, another with meat and potatoes).
A bare kitchen counter with a sink on the left and plates of food: a white plate with stuffed ravioli in orange sauce in the foreground, and a larger plate with roasted chicken, potatoes, and gravy garnished with parsley on the right, plus a green cloth towel in the lower left corner and a small herb jar on the counter.

Chef and I sit down together to eat in our private dining room, me trying to be sparing since next I have to go down for a full dinner, like the scene from The Vicar of Dibley!  

Second dinner is in Med Yatch Club which is a lovely venue, we enjoy the signature goats cheese soufflé (we’ve almost decided this soufflé should be on prescription in this restaurant!) and I go for tortelloni di ricotta e spinaci, the others chose that or have osso buco. Pudding is unanimously the tart of the day! 

Small black cast-iron dish with a round herb loaf resting on creamy melted cheese sauce, on a gray plate.
Braised beef on a bed of yellow polenta with a rosemary garnish, served on a blue plate.
Yellow tortellini pasta with green filling in a pale sauce on a white plate.
Slice of cheesecake on a blue plate with a decorative chocolate disk and swirls of whipped cream garnish on top.

It’s our finial evening with Sophie, her show is fabulous, for me the highlight is a Bacharach and David medley but really she can sing anything to us! 

Singer with a handheld mic performing on stage, keyboardist visible to the left, and a starry blue-lit backdrop behind them.
Female singer in a glittery outfit performs on stage with a drummer; orange/yellow spotlights and a starry backdrop.

We also enjoy Sophie’s duet with Dean the Cruise Director as they sing Shallow from A Star is Born. 

Male singer in a suit performing on a dimly lit stage with a neon script backdrop.

Lastly we all meet up with Sophie and Claudio again in the Explora Lounge – another late night well past our bedtime!! 

Three smiling adults sit close together on a cream sofa in a modern lounge; a server stands near the bar in the background.

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