We enjoy the lovely views from our room and the Tea County Munnar grounds overlooking the town before commencing our return to Kochi. 

Man in a light shirt seated on a wicker chair on a balcony, facing a lush forested hillside.
Tree-framed view of a valley with terracotta rooftops and distant blue mountains under a bright sky.
Residential garden with trimmed hedges, stone pathway, and multi-story buildings with tiled roofs among tall trees.
Tall trees frame a sunlit hillside garden overlooking a town and distant mountains under a blue sky

Remember when I said 93km might be the biggest roadworks ever? Today we’re on a stretch which is 530km long – is this the biggest? Perhaps?

The Indian government has decreed that all national highways will be either four or six lanes from 2030. This is an extremely intensive project and means that many roads are being worked along their entire length just like our route from Munnar. There’s a short section through protected jungle which is under judicial review but the remainder is literally a building site  We’re only using 123km section of the route but it’s frustrating enough and is going to take over four hours. We stop to view a waterfall, then cross a river.

River winds through green forested hills with a calm, reflective body of water beneath a partly cloudy sky.
Dense tropical forest with a tall waterfall cascading down gray rocks under a blue sky.

I’ve been going to talk about Mercedes – everyone want to drive one here, and the quickest route seems to be to prize off that Tata, Piaggio or Leyland badge and glue a three-pointed star in its place. Or get some Merc hubcaps, or just paint the logo on the side of your car / bus / tuk tuk / lorry! There’s also this brand which translates as India Benz and is part of Daimler Benz Trucks so is actually legitimate.

Dark gray van with open side door, showing cushioned seats and light curtains in the passenger windows, parked on a street with greenery in the background.
Front view of a white truck with Mercedes-Benz emblem, black honeycomb grille, round headlights, and a yellow TN 11 4155 license plate.
Close-up of a vintage car wheel with a metal hubcap and black tire on pavement.
View from inside a car: a BharatBenz truck in front, raindrops on the windshield, construction fencing on the right, and a rearview mirror overhead.

We stop for a toilet break and our driver and Jishjoy need coffee. We’ve worked out a little wheeze here: we leave them to coffee and continue on shank’s pony until they have finished their break and come and find us. It’s worked really well and means that we are getting a few steps in – success! We manage 2km in 21 minutes before we’re picked up, Jishoy has bought a packet of tapioca crisps for us to try – more crunchy than potato crisps, they are lovely! 

Person holding a clear plastic bag of Kerala chips with a yellow label showing chip images and branding.

We pass a small mosque and then Catholic icons including one for St George, a sign these are Orthodox churches not Latin. We could dig deeply into the thirteen variations of Christianity found in India, but it gets complicated very quickly, so I’d advise against – as Jishoy said a few days ago: there are five important versions, he went on to list six; and the rest don’t matter … too much.  

White ornate church tower with stairs and railing on a sunny street, flanked by tall green trees and a blue sky.
White shrine tower with glass panels showing statues, topped by a cross, in a sunny urban setting.

Happily it’s a very scenic route, so going slow is actually a bonus. We arrive into Kochi and our hotel just in time for lunch. Last time we were here we didn’t really appreciate it – we had just arrived in Keralam, it had been a long day with two flights and a difficult drive from the airport. 

Today we’re relaxed and everything looks better, including our room. After a lovely lunch we do Spanish and then it’s time to head over towards the waterfront. We wander around the area for a while, walk past the first, now disused, and second, now hardly used synagogues. Jishoy tells us there’s just one worshiper left in the area. 

Busy outdoor market street in India with stalls, shoppers, and tangled overhead wires.
Narrow sunlit alley between pink walls, revealing a yellow building with a wooden window and a small metal awning.
Busy street market in India with scooters parked along the sides and colorful shopfronts on both sides.
Men in blue uniforms stand near a white-wrapped cargo stack on a truck in a busy street with a jewelry shop facade nearby.
Narrow cookware shop filled with stacked aluminum pots and pans, shelves on both sides and customers in the back line of sight, center.
Street food vendor frying round yellow snacks in a large pan, with shelves of chips behind him
Narrow urban alley with plants on both sides, leading to a small house with a yellow door and red-trimmed wall in the distance.
Tailors at work in a busy workshop with sewing machines along a worktable, backpacks hanging on the left wall and storage on the right side.

We head along the waterfront to find our transport, and then out into the bay. Our route takes us past a fishing port, a shipbuilding yard and then out of the protected heads where we see the traditional Chinese style fishing rigs. 

Boats moored at a marina during sunset, with calm water and tree branches on the right.
Man seated on a boat deck under a shade sail, with water, chairs, and distant buildings visible in the background.
Purple and white passenger boats docked at a marina in front of a red brick terminal with blue diagonal supports and a Water Metro sign visible on the building.
Coastal city skyline along a harbor with boats docked and a few birds in the sky above the buildings.
Two men sit on a covered boat deck facing aft with water and a distant shoreline in view during sunset.
Group of people in traditional attire outside a colonial-style building with white columns, trees, and shrubbery.
Silhouetted construction crane framework over a harbor at sunset venturing into the sky
Silhouetted boat on calm water at sunset with a palm-tree shoreline in the distance.
Sunset over a row of tall palm trees beside a calm river, orange reflection on the water, with scaffolding visible on the right side.
Row of colorful fishing boats tied at a dock at sunset, with an orange sky and calm water reflecting hues.
Blue-hulled vessel with red trim and a flag, a bird perched on the bow while another flies nearby at sunset.
Row of brightly painted boats with Indian flags docked at the shoreline at sunset.

As the sun sets we are perfectly positioned, and then turn around to commence our return, passing the Raj hotel where Prince Charles stayed on his 2011 visit. A tanker passes close by, looking quite empty. 

Sunset over a fishery with large nets stretched between tall poles over calm water near a shoreline.
Two men posing for a selfie on a boat deck at sunset with water and shoreline in the background.
Sunset over a harbor with large fishing nets stretched between poles, metal frames, and a calm water foreground.
Large cargo ship on a calm sea at sunset, with a railing in the foreground and a pink-orange sky behind it
Waterfront city skyline at sunset with orange-hued sky, a white building with a red roof on the left, and a boat on calm water
Large cargo ship at the port under stormy skies with an orange sunset glow on the water. Important: ship is massive, with a blue control tower visible in the stern area.

We see the “dining experience” in the distance being lifted by a crane – always fancied doing that sometime. Unexpectedly we watch it lower back down. 

Nighttime view from inside a car during rain, windshield wipers in the foreground and blurred orange streetlights in the distance.

We get off our craft as the sky darkens and within a minute its torrential rain. Grabbing shelter under a stall, our drive comes with brollies to rescue us. 

Stormy night over a marina with three white boats docked at a wooden pier and dark clouds overhead, reflections on the water.

Evening dinner is excellent and the array of puds available is again extraordinarily tempting – so we succumb to a few, between the numerous  power cuts which give the restaurant an eerie green glow. 

Plate of assorted dessert bites: yellow sponge cake square with whipped cream, orange slices, kiwi, and a chocolate-topped cake piece with white frosting dollops.

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