Our day started with trouble in the form of a WhatsApp – tomorrow’s plan is cancelled because of insufficient interest. They could offer an earlier time, which isn’t ideal as it’s an hour to drive to the rendezvous.
A bit of too-ing and fro-ing later we are booked in for this afternoon instead, later than expected but that’s fine.
And so the rest of the day needs a revamp, and we decide to start by looking for a particularly interesting village we’ve read about. This also turns sour when we find out the last four km are by 4×4 only! Most of the journey isn’t wasted, only the last 30 minutes, and we certainly can say we had a great adventure (not) doing this.
Just getting around this part of the island is tricky, the roads are slowly getting repairs but it’s an enormous job, and we are thinking the road budget must be bottomless!
So we are at our second destination a little early and take a lovely walk along the front at Puerto de Tazacorte, from the town end right to the far reaches of the enormous harbour complete with the biggest sea defences we’ve ever seen.
Back in town we choose traditional fayre again, Napoli style, and enjoy pizza Before heading uphill to El Paso to meet our guide for the afternoon.
Mario takes us, and two Finns and two Spaniards, in his minivan up into the Tajogaite Volcano where I will now set the scene:
On 19 September 2021, after something between 20 and four years of indigestion, Mother Earth blew a small top, throwing ash into the air and molten rock down the hillside. It lasted for 85 days during which time 3000 homes were destroyed, over 8000 people were displaced, 74km of road were buried and 70 hectares of new island was created including 33 new beaches.
We walk a trail only open to permit carrying tour guides, indeed a ranger stopped us to check our paperwork early on. The scenery is brutal, the tops of some pine trees are still flourishing whilst other are just burned out. The ash is only 50cm deep in some places, yet 18m in others.
After three years there is new growth in the barren vista, new trees will soon reclaim this just as we’ve witnessed in Chinyero near our home.
The new crater is stunning – where we now look was a sea-view before, now it’s a huge triangular mountain, missing it’s blown-off peak. Another geography lesson in the making.
Mario is fascinating, lyrical and reflective, being both young enough to have a positive perspective whilst old and wise enough to have some reservations, particularly about how the crisis was handled from above.
Our two hour, three mile hike is exceptional and we return with as many questions as answers, and drive back to our hotel as the sun sets with much to discuss.
Tonight’s dinner is in a speciality restaurant – BBQ – which means we’re away from the madding crowd. Unfortunately not different enough, but it’s an improvement on yesterday’s – just.
