We’re heading south this morning, down the length of the spur which separates the Arabian Sea from the Vembanad Backwaters, a lake of 2033 km2 and runs for 93 km. The size is noteworthy as that’s the same size as West Yorkshire and also of Tenerife. It’s also seven times the size of the Norfolk Broads.
Backwaters are a particular phenomenon where the naturally freshwater lake or river is washed back by the nearby tidal flow. In the case of the Kerelan Backwater it’s is also carefully controlled by a floodgate, so as to manage the extent of saltiness.
We see huge coconut mats being transported, and stop off at an state-owned bottle store, the only way to purchase booze here, and then maximum four bottles.
After two very bouncy hours across those 93km, what might be the largest construction zone ever, we turn into a shipyard, and swap our Toyota for a houseboat.
Riverboats have been on Vembanad for centuries, the lifeblood of the local villages and surrounding farms. Since modernisation much of the rice is moved by truck and the flat bottomed boats have slowly evolved from day-tourism to proper livaboard status. Some have capacity for a dozen passengers on two decks, ours is just for us.
They are restricted to 1100 in number and the older wooden hulls are slowly being replaced with steel or fibreglass ones. The captain and the chef manhandle our luggage on to Emerald, and within minutes we’re off.
Jishoy, our new guide, joins us for the first part, explaining about this incredible waterway, pointing out various aspects. They actually have a travelling ATM as well as a pharmacy on the water. After lunch he is dropped off near a bus stop and we continue around the Venice of the East.
At one point we stop at the fish market and buy some huge local prawns for chef to cook later. As the sun starts to set we leave the lake and head back, stopping short of the boatyard to moor up for the night – no boats are allowed to sail in darkness.
Once moored we go for a walk, chatting with various people we come across – the icebreaker is always “where are you coming from?” – everyone is so friendly.
Then it’s time to shower and dress for dinner, including our fabulous prawns, which are like small lobsters and taste equally as good.
And those brands are: Starbucks, Krispy Kreme, KFC, Samsonite, Hamley´s, Tissot, Fossil, Swarovski.
